keeping up appearances.

here at past//relevance, we explore the fascinating re-invention of style throughout the ages. in particular, our favorite decade: the 1990's. we will look at the long-reigning influence of some of the most fashionable ladies to grace the small and silver screens and the designers who have brought the beauty of yesteryear to today's runways. none of the ideas expressed within are legitimate interpretations, but rather casual observations, the sole intent of which is to amuse and inspire. that being said, i cannot think of a more appropriate jump-off than the scintillating society dame hyacinth bucket. 

///

mrs. bucket (pronounced 'bouquet') played an integral part in the revival of the floral print day dress. once reserved for the bored housewives of the 1950's, the dated pattern is on display in just about every episode of the fantastically funny class-comedy 'keeping up appearances' (1990-1995). worn with fervent conviction by the dowdy and long-suffering liz (josephine tewson), the ageless sexpot rose (mary millar and shirley stelfox) and countless church-going, bourgeoisie busybodies. however, nobody filled a frock like the grand duchess herself. hyacinth bucket (tony-winner patricia routledge) took meticulous time and effort to bolster herself above the dregs of her ho-hum, lower-middle class neighbors: rubbing elbows with all the right people, chiefly counselor mrs. nugent and delia wheelwright, and lest we forget, those insufferable candlelight suppers. and she did it by dressing the absolute part. every. single. day. a trip to violet's country cottage (the one with the gold-plated taps); an impromptu art exhibition (with cheese and wine); luxury cruising aboard the qe2; understated refinement was the norm in hyacinth's world.

///

last year, an article in the independent spoke of the return of the summer dress and, chiefly, the man behind the move. london based fashion house erdem, a favorite of keira knightley, anna wintour and claudia schiffer, is credited for designing the season's freshest take on the garden print. clean and graphic silhouettes steer the classic look away from any associations with laura ashley or little house on the prairie. partially inspired by the 1920's japanese modan garus (modern girls) who eschewed traditional kimonos for western garb, erdem manages to keep it fresh and youthful via modern fabrics and couture lace by sophie hallette, strengthening the style without sacrificing quality. 

erdem pre-spring 2012

erdem pre-spring 2012

     




                       

 blue skull slice hat in felt with flower and feather, as worn by christina hendricks

of course, when discussing the hostess with the mostess, we cannot forget to talk about those hats. magenta, lilac, lavender and plum. marigold, mustard, seafoam and sand. yes, for every fabulous summer dress, hyacinth always seems to have the perfect accompanying chapeau. and of course, the immediate destination for exceptional headgear is irish milliner philip treacy, the effervescent craftsman famous for playing the court jester, while staying within the confines of practicality. treacy's history of bold flirtation with the avant-garde has resulted in some serious works of art. in fact, one of the pieces from his latest spring / summer 2011 collection looks rather familiar, no? 

///

floral prints were ubiquitous with this past season's spring / summer runways. in addition to erdem, the likes of anna sui, dolce & gabbana and moschino displayed fabulous garden party frocks worthy of the equally fabulous upper crust. the vibrant, in-bloom summer dress: whilst not a particularly groundbreaking idea, we like to think that this year the top inspiration boards, from milan to nyc, were plastered with peonies and posies in honor of the original desperate housewife.

dolce & gabbana ss11 // floral maxi print